It was my second time in Kuching and this time around, it wasn’t just another trip – it was also my birthday. My travel partner had planned the getaway and even chosen a special dinner spot: Lepau Restaurant, a place that kept showing up in glowing reviews. In fact, it won the Best Innovative Ethnic Restaurant at the 20th Malaysia Tourism Awards in 2018.
Whenever I travel somewhere, I always make it a point to eat local. And Lepau, with its promise of traditional Sarawakian dishes, felt like the perfect choice to celebrate. The restaurant was just a short walk from the Theatre Hotel Kuching, where we were staying, which made it even more convenient.
Location & opening hours
Lepau Restaurant
99, Jalan Ban Hock, Road, 93100 Kuching, Sarawak (about 20 minutes’ walk or 5 minutes’ drive from Kuching Waterfront)
Phone: +60128845383
Opening hours: Mon – Sat, 11am – 2pm; 6pm – 10pm; closed on Sun.
What to expect
What I loved immediately upon arrival was the ambience: Lepau means “hut” in the Kayan language, and the décor leans fully into that concept. Zinc roofs, potted plants everywhere, simple wooden or metal tables and chairs – it very much felt like stepping into a village warung, albeit a nicer, more stylish one.
We had underestimated just how popular Lepau was and thought we could simply turn up and get a table. But when we arrived, there was a sign at the entrance announcing that the restaurant was fully booked for the night. Our hearts sank – it was supposed to be a special occasion for us and we had no backup plan.
Not wanting to give up, we spoke to the hostess and asked if she could put us on the waiting list in case of cancellations. With nowhere else to go, we decided to hang around. We sat at the waiting area, put on some insect repellent, and hoped for the best.
Half an hour later, our luck turned – a table opened up, and we couldn’t have been happier.
What we ate
Once we finally got our table, we decided to celebrate properly and ordered a spread of dishes to share.
We started with the Lepau signature Itun Uvek fried rice, which is basically rice fried with finely chopped tapioca leaves — something we had never come across, even in Bornean restaurants in Peninsular Malaysia.
The tapioca leaves gave the rice a deep green color and a “leafy” taste that I would describe as more robust than spinach but less sharp than kale. It paired nicely with the garlic, egg, and anchovies, but we found the sambal too sweet for our liking.
The fried rice came with a side of ayam pansuh — chicken cooked inside bamboo with herbs until tender. The cooking method gave the meat a subtle smokiness, and the light broth that came with it was infused with the flavors of lemongrass and ginger.
It’s a dish that is typically served during festivals — much like lemang for Eid.
We don’t normally go heavy on carbs, but the Bario purple rice wrapped in itun sip piqued our curiosity, so we had to order that as well.
It’s a highland staple that’s naturally purple in color, wrapped in wild ginger leaf to preserve its moisture and enhance its aroma. The texture is slightly sticky with a mild nutty taste that made it the perfect accompaniment to the stronger flavors of the mains.
The Melanau fish umai was next; it’s Sarawak’s version of ceviche. The raw fish was marinated in lime juice, chilies, and onions, resulting in something refreshing and zesty, with a bright kick of heat. It was light but bold, a great contrast to the heavier dishes. If you love sashimi, you’ll certainly love this.
For vegetables, we tried the stir-fried tepus with kantan and chili. Tepus (red gingerwort, according to Google) had a crunchy bite and a distinctive, almost floral flavor.
Stir-frying it with torch ginger, chili, and anchovies brought out its fragrance and added a fiery edge, making it one of the most unique vegetable dishes I’ve ever tasted.
The only issue was that neither of us was a big fan of onions, and there were lots of them in the dish. It took a while to separate them.
To wash everything down, we ordered the famous Sarawak three-layer tea, with palm sugar syrup at the bottom, creamy evaporated milk in the middle, and strong tea layered on top. However, I have to admit, Lepau’s version tasted a little diluted, and the three layers weren’t very distinct. Still pleasant, but not the best I’ve had in Kuching.
Meanwhile, the tree bark tea I ordered sounded scary at first, but actually tasted more like lemongrass and pandan.
Additional tips for visiting
- Always make a reservation, especially for dinner.
- Come with friends so you can order several dishes to share.
- Don’t miss the tapioca leaves fried rice and ayam pansuh – they’re Lepau’s signatures.
- Bring insect repellent if you’re sitting outdoors in the evening. The dim lighting, the plants, and natural décor add to the vibe, but they also attract mosquitoes.
- For those concerned about dietary restrictions: Lepau is Muslim-friendly. There’s no pork, no lard, and the food is advertised as being suitable “regardless of background, religion and dietary restrictions”.
Final thoughts
What could have been a disappointing night turned into one of the most memorable meals I’ve had in Kuching. And once we were inside, Lepau Restaurant lived up to its reputation with warm service and dishes that celebrated Sarawak’s culinary heritage.
If you’re in Kuching, I’d definitely recommend giving it a try – just remember to book ahead so you don’t end up waiting like we did.
For more things to do and eat in the city, check out my Kuching travel guide and Sarawak food guide. And if you’re looking for more destination ideas in Malaysia, food recommendations, and travel tips, have a browse through the rest of my blog.
