Bintulu was a last-minute decision for me. I was traveling along the west coast of Sarawak by bus and my original plan was to catch the overnight bus straight from Sibu to Miri. It would save me one night of accommodation.
But after looking at the map, I realized that I’d be passing through Bintulu, a town of a decent size that might offer something worthwhile. So, I started to look up things to do and thought: why not make a stop there instead of just riding through the night?
That’s how I ended up breaking the journey, spending a day in Bintulu, and finally getting a feel for this town I previously knew nothing about beyond its oil-and-gas reputation.
Bintulu at a glance
Geography
Bintulu sits at the mouth of the Kemena River on the South China Sea, along the northwest coast of Sarawak, between Sibu and Miri. The urban area is coastal and riverine; Tanjung Kidurong (the industrial port/LNG area) sits a short drive north of town.
History
Bintulu was a small fishing and riverine settlement under the Brunei Sultanate, then became part of the Brooke administration in the 19th century. Large oil-and-gas finds in the late 1960s transformed it into an industrial hub.
The Bintulu LNG complex (Petronas/MLNG) is one of the world’s largest LNG production hubs and shapes the town’s economy and skyline.
Population
The Bintulu district has about ~235,000 people. Major local groups are Iban, Malay, Melanau and Chinese. Christianity and Islam are the largest religions in the area (Christianity is significant in parts of Sarawak, Islam is widely practiced as well).
Malay and English are used officially; Iban, Melanau and a range of Chinese dialects are commonly spoken locally.
Best time to go to Bintulu
Bintulu has a classic equatorial climate: hot, humid, and wet to some degree all year round. Daytime temperatures are usually between 27–32°C.
The wettest months are roughly October to January, during which heavy downpours are common, so it’s less ideal for beach days or outdoor activities. If you’re coming then, it’s still manageable, just bring a rain jacket, waterproof your bags, and expect plans to be flexible.
From around March to September, the weather is generally drier and sunnier. But even then, “dry” is relative. Rain is always possible, and trails can stay muddy.
If you like timing trips with local events, Sarawak often has cultural festivals scattered throughout the year. In Bintulu itself, big festivals (like Gawai in June, celebrated statewide by the Dayak community) also spill into town and give a more festive feel.
How to get to Bintulu
By air
Bintulu Airport (BTU) has scheduled domestic flights from Kuala Lumpur, Kuching, Miri, Sibu, and Mukah. Airlines that serve Bintulu include Malaysia Airlines, Air Asia, and Batik Air Malaysia.
The airport is about a 20-minute drive from town, and you can easily get a Grab or taxi ride between the two.
By bus
Bintulu is well connected by long-distance coach to nearby Sarawak cities: Miri (roughly 3.5 – 4 hours) and Sibu (around 3 – 5 hours). Bus services are frequent and inexpensive; night buses are an option but check times in advance.
By car
Bintulu sits right along the Pan Borneo Highway (AH150), so driving in is straightforward.
- From Sibu: It’s about 210 km and takes 3 – 4 hours depending on traffic and stops. Just follow the Pan Borneo Highway north.
- From Miri: It’s also about 210 km, 3 – 4 hours, heading south on the same highway.
- From Kuching: Much longer — more than 600 km and at least 10 hours, so most people break the journey in Sibu or stop overnight somewhere else.
Car rental desks are available at Bintulu Airport (Avis, Hertz, and local agencies), or you can arrange pickup in Kuching, Sibu, or Miri with a different drop-off point if you’re doing a one-way road trip across Sarawak. Driving is generally safe on the main highway, but be prepared for heavy lorries, occasional roadworks, and reduced visibility in rain.
I’ve written a full article on driving in East Malaysia (Sabah & Sarawak).
How to get around in Bintulu
- Taxi / ride-hailing: I personally only used Grab to get around in town when it was too far to walk, and had no issue at all. Maxim is another popular ride-hailing app in Sarawak, and I’m sure taxis are available too, but I didn’t use them during my stay. For places that are further from town, it’s best to arrange a return pickup with your Grab / taxi driver, in case you have difficulty finding a ride back.
- Car hire: Recommended if you want to reach the national parks, waterfalls, or fishing villages on a flexible schedule. See above for more info on car rental in Sarawak.
- Local buses: There are local bus routes to places like Tatau, Nyalau, and Sebauh but they’re not frequent (some only once a day).
15 things to do in Bintulu
1. Enjoy nature at Similajau National Park
During my visit, Similajau National Park was temporarily closed due to some maintenance work, and is still closed at the time of writing, but apparently, if there’s one major attraction in Bintulu, this is it.
About a 30 – 40 minute drive from town, this coastal rainforest park has walking trails that weave through greenery and open up to secluded beaches. The most popular hike is the trail to Golden Beach, which takes a few hours each way depending on your pace. It’s not too strenuous, but it does require proper shoes. Pack your own food and plenty of water, because there’s no café or convenience store once you’re inside.
The beaches themselves are quiet and lovely, with golden sand and the occasional troop of monkeys crossing your path. They’re not for swimming, though, because of dangerous undertows and crocodiles, especially near the river mouth (it can’t get any wilder than that, can it?).
Getting there is the tricky part, as there’s no public transport, so you’ll need to arrange a taxi for a round trip.
2. Unwind at Pantai Tanjung Batu
Closer to town, Pantai Tanjung Batu is Bintulu’s most pleasant and accessible beach. It’s well-maintained, with shaded areas, paths for jogging or strolling, food trucks, and plenty of locals coming in the evenings to fish or just hang out by the sea.
If you want to relax by the beach without committing to a full-day hike like Similajau, this is the spot to do it. Sunset here can be surprisingly beautiful, with families, joggers, and groups of friends all gathering to enjoy the breeze.
It felt like one of the few places in Bintulu where the town’s otherwise industrial atmosphere melted away. For a laid-back evening, grab some snacks beforehand and settle in for a couple of hours by the water.
3. Have some family-friendly fun at Taman Tumbina
Taman Tumbina is part mini-zoo, part botanical garden, and while it doesn’t have the polish of a big city attraction, it’s worth a wander if you have a spare morning or afternoon.
Inside the park, you’ll find animals like sun bears, birds, deer, reptiles, primates, and leopard cats. What makes Tumbina appealing is the mix of zoo and nature trail, so if you’re not a fan of zoos, you can still walk around the botanical garden to have a sense of the local flora.
It’s not spectacular, but if you’re looking for something easy to do without leaving town, it’s a solid option.
4. Climb Tumbina Hill
Tumbina Hill is a little hiking spot right in the city center, about 5 minutes’ drive from the waterfront. It’s essentially a hillside walking trail that offers a bit of exercise and a good view once you reach the top. The climb isn’t long (the peak is only 70m above sea level), but it’s enough to get your heart pumping, and makes a nice change if you’ve been sitting in cars or at your desk for long stretches.
There had been a landslide months before my visit, and you could still see that maintenance hadn’t quite caught up, but the path was still accessible. You’ll see local joggers using it in the mornings and evenings, which makes the city feel a little bit more livable.
5. Snack & shop at Pasar Utama & Pasar Tamu
Markets are always a window into daily life, and in Bintulu, Pasar Utama (the main market) and Pasar Tamu (the farmers’ market) are the places to go. Inside, you’ll find rows of vendors selling fresh seafood, fruits, and vegetables. It’s a good stop if you’re curious about what ingredients locals are using in their kitchens, or if you just want to pick up something small and inexpensive.
Visiting early in the day gives you the best variety, as stalls start winding down in the afternoon. Don’t expect a tourist market with souvenirs and crafts. This is more a functional space for locals. Still, it’s lively, and if you enjoy the sensory experience of markets, you’ll find it rewarding.
6. Stroll along the river
Bintulu lies along the Kemena River, but apart from the Bintulu Waterfront, the rest of the riverside looks underdeveloped and a little neglected. The “Bintulu Esplanade” is essentially a bare concrete square with little to catch the eye. I actually walked past it the first time, mistaking it for an abandoned parking lot.
That said, it’s still one of the best places in central Bintulu to stretch your legs, see the river, and watch sunset with the locals in the evenings. If you go in with modest expectations, you can treat it as a simple stroll rather than a highlight.
7. Visit Tua Pek Kong Temple
Tua Pek Kong Temple is one of Bintulu’s oldest Chinese temples, located near the old town area. Architecturally, it’s fairly modest compared to larger temples in Kuching or Miri, but it’s colorful and active, with incense coils, deity statues, and worshippers coming to pay their respects. For travelers, it offers a window into the town’s Chinese community and religious life.
It doesn’t take long to visit, but it’s worth stopping by if you’re already in the area. Like with many temples, be respectful, dress modestly, don’t block worshippers, and ask before taking photos inside.
8. Eat your way through the night market
Bintulu’s Night Market is where the town feels most alive after dark. Dozens of food stalls set up in an open space, selling everything from barbecued meats and satay to local cakes, drinks, and even fresh produce.
This is the spot to try local specialties without committing to a full-size meal at a sit-down restaurant. It’s inexpensive, casual, and one of the few places in Bintulu where you’ll see a real crowd at night, including families, groups of friends, and workers grabbing dinner.
9. Stretch your legs at Taman Millennium
Taman Millennium is a recreational space on the outskirts of Bintulu. It’s a sprawling green area with jogging tracks, cycling paths, and artificial lakes. Families and joggers use it in the mornings and evenings to enjoy some greenery without leaving the city.
Because of its size, it can feel a bit empty at times, especially during the heat of the day. Go early or late if you want to see it at its liveliest.
10. Wander around the old airport (Lasar Kenyalang)
Bintulu’s old airport was once the main gateway into the town, but after operations moved to the new Bintulu Airport in the early 2000s, the site was redeveloped into what’s now known as Lasar Kenyalang.
Instead of planes and runways, you’ll now find a recreation park with a playground, a jogging track, sculptures, and an event space. In the late afternoon, you’ll often see locals having a picnic or playing kites.
11. Cross the river to Kampung Jepak
Kampung Jepak is a traditional fishing village located just across the Kemena River from the main town. You’ll see stilt houses, wooden walkways, and locals going about their daily routines, drying fish, mending nets, or tending to small boats.
This isn’t a tourist site but someone’s home, so it’s important to be respectful. Ask before taking photos and be mindful of people’s privacy. Getting across is easy enough with a taxi or even arranging a quick boat trip, and spending an hour or two wandering Kampung Jepak gives you a sense of the roots that existed long before oil and gas defined modern Bintulu.
12. Check out the Council Negeri Monument
The Council Negeri Monument marks a small but notable piece of Sarawak history: Bintulu was the site of the first meeting of the Sarawak Council Negeri in 1867, which was the beginning of a representative government in the state.
The monument itself is just a simple clock tower with Islamic-style arches and dome. It’s more of a quick stop while passing through rather than a destination in its own right, though there’s a small signboard nearby that gives some basic information about the site.
13. Dip your toes at Pantai Batu Mandi
This is a relatively wild, sandy coastline about 25 km from Bintulu town, close to Similajau National Park. It’s mostly unspoiled, not heavily developed, and fairly quiet compared to more popular beaches. The stretch is good for morning walks, evening strolls, watching vegetation meet the coast, and just enjoying wide open sea views.
14. Trek to hidden waterfalls
There are a few small waterfalls around Bintulu, for example:
- Bukit Nyabau Waterfall, reachable via jungle walk.
- Bejiam Waterfall in Kampung Ulu Nyalau, about 60 km off the Bintulu-Miri road.
- Wong Sunang Waterfall in Ulu Sangan, reachable by a long boat from Tatau Bazaar.
Some of these waterfalls are so hidden they don’t appear on maps. Signage is minimal, and access may require local knowledge or a guide. Trails can be muddy, rocky, and overgrown, so good footwear is a must. Also, because these are more remote, expect fewer facilities.
15. Detour to Niah Caves
While not technically in Bintulu, Niah Caves is often included as part of a trip through this section of Sarawak. Located closer to Miri, it’s about two to three hours’ drive from Bintulu, so it’s possible as a long day trip or, better yet, an overnight stop if you’re heading north.
Niah Caves were named as one of Malaysia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites for its historical significance: evidence of human settlement dating back tens of thousands of years. Inside, you’ll find huge caverns, cave paintings, and swiftlet nests.
If you’re passing through anyway, Niah is one of Sarawak’s most impressive archaeological and natural sites.
Where to stay in Bintulu
I stayed at Kris Lodge, a decent budget hotel located within walking distance to the Boulevard Mall, Tumbina Hill walking trail, Taman Tumbina Zoo, and Tanjung Batu Beach (the beach is a little far, but still walkable). However, right around the hotel itself, there wasn’t much to see or do.
Here are other top-rated hotels in Bintulu city center for different budgets:
Budget
- New World Express Motel – one of the better budget hotels in the city center with spacious rooms.
- Waterfront Homestay – new but highly-rated budget hotel near the night market and Pasar Tamu Bintulu.
- 4orty Inn – a no-frills budget hotel located right in front of the beach.
Mid-range
- Goldenbay Hotel Bintulu – a more affordable luxury hotel at the far end of the waterfront, with spacious rooms, a rooftop pool, rooftop dining, fitness center, and meeting facilities.
- Amigo Hotel Bintulu – located near the old airport, with an in-house restaurant. Some rooms come with a bathtub.
- Greens Hotel & Suites – a city-center hotel with large, stylish rooms, an in-house restaurant, fitness center, and conference hall.
Luxury
- New World Suites – clean, luxurious rooms near the waterfront, with a gym, meeting rooms, banquet / conference halls, restaurants.
- Fairfield by Marriott Bintulu Paragon – modern, sleek hotel near Bintulu night market, with restaurants, lounges, meeting rooms, and a fitness center.
- Parkcity Everly Hotel Bintulu – one of the few hotels in Bintulu with a swimming pool, located by the river. Also has a fitness center, business center, banquet hall, restaurant, and meeting rooms.
How long to stay in Bintulu
Many visitors come here for work purposes, or like me, as a stopover between Sibu and Miri. In that case, a one-night stay works fine: you can wander the waterfront, go to the beach, eat at the night market or a seafood place, and see a slice of local life before moving on.
If you have two to three full days, you’ll get a fuller experience. That’s enough time to spend a day at Similajau National Park (the highlight of the area if it’s open), and another day for a trip to the waterfalls or nearby fishing villages. You can also use Bintulu as a base to visit the Niah Caves, which lie about halfway between Bintulu and Miri.
Bintulu is compact, and the appeal lies more in the nearby day trips than in city attractions.
Suggested itineraries
2 days
Day 1
- Morning: Walk the waterfront, visit Pasar Utama and Pasar Tamu. Grab breakfast at the market or a local kopitiam.
- Afternoon: Visit Tua Pek Kong Temple, see the Council Negeri monument, and lunch at one of the shopping malls to escape the heat.
- Evening: Hang out at Lasar Kenyalang. Dinner at the night market.
Day 2
- Day trip to Similajau National Park if it’s already open. Otherwise, hike the Tumbina Hill and visit the nearby Taman Tumbina Zoo.
- Watch sunset at Pantai Tanjung Batu and get dinner from the food trucks.
3 - 4 days
- Day 3: Day trip to the waterfalls or Niah Caves.
- Day 4: Kampung Jepak visit in the morning, then last-minute shopping before departure.
Additional tips for visiting Bintulu
- Set your expectations. Bintulu isn’t a tourist town — it’s primarily an industrial hub. Don’t expect a charming old quarter or polished esplanade. Go in with the mindset that it’s functional first, and you’ll be less disappointed.
- Choose accommodation carefully. Where you stay can shape your impression. Some parts of town feel isolated after dark, especially around the industrial workshops. If you prefer a livelier atmosphere, pick a hotel in a more central area.
- Transport is essential. The town isn’t pedestrian-friendly. Most locals drive, and the roads are built for cars rather than walkers. Grab and taxis are available, but if you plan to see Similajau, Niah Caves, or the beaches, renting a car will save a lot of time and trouble.
- Plan nature trips ahead. There’s no public transport to the national parks or waterfalls. You’ll need to arrange a taxi, a driver, or rent a car. Confirm your return transport so you’re not stranded there.
- Safety vibe. I didn’t personally run into trouble, but the streets can feel a little unfriendly, especially if you’re a woman walking alone after dark. Stick to busier areas and use transport at night if you’re unsure.
- Cash still handy. While some places take cards, many local stalls and smaller eateries only accept cash. Have small notes ready.
Final thoughts
Is Bintulu worth visiting?
Stopping in Bintulu broke up my long bus ride nicely, but if I’m honest, it wasn’t a place that clicked with me. Maybe it was where I chose to stay, but the overall atmosphere felt a bit too industrial and masculine.
It’s a town built around oil, gas, and heavy industries, where most of the people you see on the streets are male workers and the areas around the workshops go quiet and isolated after dark. I can’t say for sure how safe or unsafe it really is because I wasn’t there long enough, but the mood felt a little hostile.
What stood out most was how car-oriented the city felt. Unlike Sibu, or even Kuching, both of which have an old-town core you can walk through with traditional shophouses and plenty of life on the streets, Bintulu seemed designed for vehicles rather than pedestrians. Most of the time I was the only one walking, and the wide roads plus lack of old-town charm made the city feel less welcoming to explore on foot.
Apart from that, many parts of the city just felt neglected. The “esplanade” I saw on the map turned out to be a bare, desolate square I almost mistook for an abandoned parking lot. The Kidurong Tower, which used to be a scenic lookout point for the LNG port has been walled up for nearly a decade due to unsafe railings, yet no one has done anything to fix it. And who knows when the “maintenance work” at Similajau National Park will be completed.
That said, there were a few things I did enjoy. The walking trail at Tumbina Hill was surprisingly fun despite signs of neglect after a landslide that happened more than 7 months ago; Taman Tumbina itself wasn’t bad for a short wander, and Pantai Tanjung Batu was genuinely beautiful, well-kept, and a pleasant spot to hang out with friends and family.
Admittedly, I didn’t spend enough time in Bintulu to make a fair judgment, but my short stay left me with the impression of a town that’s functional and industrious more than inviting. If you’re passing through, it’s worth stopping for a night to break up a long journey. Beyond that, unless you’re drawn by industry, work or family ties, it may not hold you for long.
