Potai Farmstay Review: Experiencing Life as a FELDA Settler

I only recently found out about Potai Farmstay in FELDA Bukit Rokan, Gemencheh, Negeri Sembilan, and I immediately thought it was right up my alley.

Having previously slept in a barn in Switzerland, cycled through rice fields in Vietnam, and learnt to pick corns and scallions in Taiwan, I’ve always enjoyed travel experiences that let me get a little closer to the way people live, work, and go about their daily lives, especially in rural areas.

Somewhere along the way, I started wondering why Malaysia didn’t seem to have more experiences that let visitors try their hand at farming for a day, the way some other countries do.

As it turns out, Potai Farmstay’s owner, Mr Calvin Lai had been asking himself the exact same question.

With a background in the tourism industry, he decided to turn his childhood home into a farmstay where visitors, including those from overseas, could experience what life is like as a FELDA* settler.

And so, the idea behind Potai Farmstay was born.

💡 FELDA (Federal Land Development Authority) is a Malaysian government agency established to develop rural land and help landless families build livelihoods through agriculture, particularly rubber and oil palm farming.

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The story behind Potai Farmstay

To understand what makes this place special, you need to know a little about its history.

Back in the late 1960s, Mr Lai’s father was among the first settlers who came to FELDA Bukit Rokan to cultivate the land.

In fact, the name Potai is derived from his name, Lai Fook Thai, whom the local community affectionately calls Potai. Coincidentally, potai is also how locals pronounce petai (stinky beans), a common crop in the region.

Back then, this was a very different place from what we see today. There wasn’t even electricity or running water, and life revolved around the land and what it could provide.

The farm flourished, but as opportunities in the bigger cities became increasingly tempting, the younger generation gradually moved away in search of better prospects.

The idea of turning the family home into a farmstay only began to take shape during the pandemic, like most brilliant ideas did, as people found themselves stuck at home, unable to travel or even cross state borders.

What began as a concept eventually became a reality, and the old wooden house has since been renovated and expanded to welcome guests while retaining much of its traditional charm.

Walking into the living room, you’ll find traditional wooden settees, along with classic household keepsakes from decades past.

Rather than stripping away the character of the old house to make it look like a modern resort, the renovations preserve a sense of its past.

My experience at Potai Farmstay

On my many road trips across Malaysia, I’ve passed by FELDA plantations countless times and always wondered what life must be like for the people who live and work there.

So when I found out that Potai Farmstay offers exactly that kind of experience, I knew I had to check it out.

As usual, I recruited my regular travel partner cum designated driver, who conveniently shares my taste for these kinds of unconventional travel experiences, and we made our way from Kuala Lumpur to Gemencheh.

The drive took us along winding roads that reminded me a little of the journey up to Genting Highlands. It’s a scenic change from the usual highway drive, and a nice way to ease into the countryside.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by Mr. Calvin Lai himself. After some tea and homemade kuih kapit, followed by a tour of the house, it was time to get going.

Together with three other guests and a few local boys, we climbed onto the back of a truck and headed to the rubber plantation.

Now, for someone born and raised in the city, even riding on the back of a truck through the countryside was exciting enough. It was a fun little adventure in itself, and a pretty effective mood-setter for what was to come.

Learning the art of rubber tapping

Rubber trees are a familiar sight in Malaysia, but how much do most of us actually know about the process of harvesting rubber? I certainly had plenty to learn.

During our visit, we got to see the rubber plantation up close and learn about the history of rubber cultivation in the area.

We were also introduced to the rubber-tapping process, including how the bark is carefully cut to allow the latex to flow out and be collected.

It may sound simple, but it’s a skill that requires considerable knowledge and experience. The cuts need to be made carefully, because damaging the tree can affect its ability to produce latex.

There’s a technique to it, which was skillfully demonstrated by Mr William, another one of the settlers.

For the sake of the trees and the people whose livelihoods depended on them, I figured it was best to keep our hands well away from the tapping knives.

Visiting a coconut farm

Our next stop was a coconut farm, where we learned about the different types of coconuts and their uses.

Coconuts are so common in Malaysian food and drinks that it’s easy to take them for granted.

But there are different varieties, each with its own characteristics, and we also learned how to tell when a coconut is at just the right stage of maturity for drinking.

(Secretly, though, I still can’t tell them apart, any more than I can tell the difference between coriander and parsley. Please don’t call my bluff and ask me to identify them.)

The best part? We got to pick our own coconuts and drink them fresh.

We got to try two different varieties.

The first was the pandan coconut, which has a green outer shell. As the name suggests, its juice has a sweet, fragrant aroma reminiscent of pandan leaves.

The second was the Golden Malayan Dwarf, sometimes called Tropical Gold. True to its name, this variety has a golden-yellow outer shell.

Its coconut water has a refreshing taste with a hint of tanginess and a subtle fizz. In traditional Chinese medicine, it’s believed to help alleviate heatiness.

There’s something oddly satisfying about enjoying a fruit after seeing where it grows and having a hand in harvesting it (even if you played no part in growing it).

And in Malaysia’s heat, a freshly opened coconut is never a bad idea.

A taste of Negeri Sembilan

After a morning of exploring the plantations, it was time to head back for lunch.

And not just any lunch. We were treated to a communal dulang meal, with everyone sharing dishes arranged together on a large tray.

The spread featured Negeri Sembilan specialties, including masak lemak cili api, a rich, spicy coconut-milk dish associated with the state’s Minangkabau-influenced cuisine. It’s known for its generous use of chilies, and depending on how generous, it can be quite fiery.

Sharing a dulang meal also made the experience feel more communal. Instead of everyone ordering separate dishes and eating individually, we gathered around the food and enjoyed the meal together.

Of all the delicious things we ate, one dish that deserves its own spotlight is ayam dongak.

The name literally refers to the chicken looking upward, and you’ll understand why when you see it served.

The whole chicken is presented standing upright on a skewer, with its head tilted upward. It’s a rather distinctive presentation, to say the least!

The chicken is roasted for about an hour at a carefully controlled temperature, allowing it to cook through while retaining its juices. The result is chicken that’s beautifully cooked through without drying out.

Between the unusual presentation and the cooking technique, ayam dongak certainly makes an impression.

Another unexpected detail was the rice, which was cooked with red palm oil, a nutrient-rich oil containing beta-carotene and vitamin E compounds with antioxidant properties.

The funny thing is, despite Malaysia being a major palm oil producer, we’d never tried rice cooked with it before!

But the food wasn’t the only thing on the menu.

While we were dining, the group of local boys, decked out in their traditional outfits, entertained us with tarian piring, a traditional Minangkabau plate dance.

The dance features intricate hand movements and footwork, with performers balancing and manipulating small plates as they move to the rhythm of traditional music.

It impressed me how many members of the local community were involved in making the experience happen.

The local boys who accompanied us to the plantation and later performed the traditional dance were just one part of the picture.

Other community members helped prepare our meals, took care of the housekeeping, and facilitated the various group activities.

The experience brought different people from the community together, allowing them to share their skills, traditions, and knowledge with visitors while playing a part in the local tourism industry.

For travelers, that means getting to interact with the people behind the experience rather than simply passing through a place as an observer.

And for a farmstay built around the history and way of life of a FELDA settlement, that community involvement feels especially fitting.

Oftentimes, the most memorable experiences aren’t found at a famous attraction. They’re found in the stories people tell, the things they teach you, and the food they serve.

Staying at Potai Farmstay

We visited Potai Farmstay on a day trip, but if you’d like to slow down and spend more time in the countryside, you can opt for a multi-day stay.

The accommodation has a total capacity of 50 guests, with room configurations that can accommodate between two and eight people each.

That makes it suitable for families, groups of friends, and even larger groups looking for a countryside getaway. It could also work for company retreats, corporate events, and team-building activities.

There are different packages available, including 2 days 1 night (2D1N) and 3 days 2 nights (3D2N) packages. These packages come with additional activities beyond the ones I experienced on my day trip.

Honestly, I wouldn’t mind staying a few more days, if only to eat my way through more of their cooking!

Practical information

Location: FELDA Bukit Rokan, Gemencheh, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia

Getting there: Getting there by car is pretty straightforward, but be prepared for some winding roads along the way. The drive took us a little over two hours from KL.

If you’re traveling by train, pickup from KTM Batang Melaka may be arranged with advance notice. Confirm availability with the farmstay before your visit.

How to book: You can book here or contact Potai Farmstay (WhatsApp +6013-322 6733) directly to check current rates, available dates, package inclusions, meal arrangements, and the exact activities scheduled for your visit.

Final thoughts

Is Potai Farmstay worth visiting?